Replacing your old windows may be the best thing you could do whether you are staying in your house or selling it, or live in a cold or warm climate. This qualifies you for a tax credit, saves between 10 and 25 percent every year on energy bills regardless if you’re heating or cooling and increases the value of your home if you decide to put it on the market in the future.
Replacement windows can be a do-it-yourself project, especially if budget constraints allow you to do only a few or a room at a time. Start with a window that is barely noticeable, just so you can learn through trial and error before going after the rest of the house.
First consideration would be to pick the right kind of material for the frame: vinyl, wood, or fiberglass?. As usual, you get what you pay for. Vinyl might be the lowest in terms of cost, is relatively maintenance free and comes in a wide range of colors to choose from. But it won’t do as good a job keeping out cold and heat as wood and fiberglass. Painted or stained wood looks better on a classic house. Fiberglass frames, on the other hand, lasts longer than wood, requires less maintenance and can also be painted with any color.
Measure the sizes of your windows first before visiting the home improvement store. Just in case there are warpings on the frame, it would be safe to go with the smallest measurements; using a measuring tape to measure from inside jamb (window jambs make up the top, bottom, and sides of the window like a frame) of the right side of the window to the inside jamb on the left side at the middle of the window, and then double check your measurements. Get the height by running the tape from the inside of the window sill to the inside of the top window jamb.
Once you have your new window, take out the old one. Start by removing the stops - the thin, vertical pieces of wood that hold the sashes (the framed part of the window that holds the glass) in place. You’ll need to use a pry bar - gently - a screwdriver, and a utility knife. Put the stops aside, you’ll need them for the replacement.
The inside sash cords - the ropes that makes the window go up and down - should be clipped. Allow the weights to fall into their pockets. Then remove the outside sash by sliding it down and removing the vertical strips holding the sashes in place. You can leave the outside stops in place.
Look for holes and cracks when you inspect the window. Fill the larger cracks with wood filler or putty and sand the smaller ones.
Cross your fingers and see if you measured correctly and your new replacement window is the right fit. Center the window sashes by moving the bumper stops toward the middle and locate the four spots for side mounting holes. Apply caulk to both sides as well as to the inside of the jamb’s outside stops. On top of the window, place the header and caulk before screwing it into place.
When you put the replacement in the hole, use a level to make sure all corners are square. To help make sure all four corners are at 90-degree angles, tap in the shims. Make sure there are no spaces in between the window and the frames, adjust the header across the top as you tighten the mounting screws at the top and bottom.
One you’ve checked the sashes slide smoothly, install the inside stops and caulk inside the windows, and you’re done.
Most replacement windows come with a step-by-step guide and many dealers have videos online to help you through the process. The rest will be easy once you’ve installed the first window.
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